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Hi Wine Friends,
I'm back from France and still reeling from the magic of Burgundy (which I raved about last week) but I wanted to share more about one of the most iconic wine regions in the world: Champagne.
Even though it was just a two hour's drive from Burgundy, Champagne felt like a world away - a realm steeped in history, grandeur, and a bit of mystery. After all, this is the region that claims to have invented the méthode champenoise, the traditional sparkling wine production method - though the folks in Limoux might beg to differ! And of course, there's the legend of Dom Pérignon, the Benedictine monk who supposedly "invented" Champagne (though we know now he was more focused on preventing bubbles).
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While the landscape itself - rolling hills and endless rows of vineyards - might have appeared similar to Burgundy, the spirit of the two regions couldn't be more different. Champagne is a region that's both grand and intimate, where centuries-old Champagne houses, with their rich heritage and imposing chateaus, coexist with a new wave of passionate grower-producers, who are inspired by the terroir-driven philosophy of Burgundy. This fascinating tension between tradition and innovation is what makes Champagne so nuanced, with both the grandes maisons and the smaller vignerons adding dimension to an already complex region.
It was a bit surreal to roll into Champagne on New Year's Day. After a redeye flight and a strong French double espresso (otherwise known as motor oil), we headed straight to Ayala, one of the oldest Champagne houses in the region. Founded in 1860, Ayala was a pioneer of the dry brut style we know and love today, bucking the trend of sugary Champagne that was popular at the time. They focus on Chardonnay and use zero oak in their winemaking, resulting in Champagnes that are crisp, linear and bright. We toured their impressive cellars (a labyrinth of tunnels dug deep into the chalky earth) and tasted through their elegant range. I was particularly smitten with the Brut Nature and the 2018 Blanc de Blancs – both were stunning examples of Ayala's signature citrusy, refreshing style.
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Our final stop in Champagne was the legendary Bollinger. This historic house has been producing Champagne since 1829 and is known for its rich, full-bodied style (a fun contrast to the more delicate Ayala). Bollinger is the epitome of Champagne grandeur - they're even the official Champagne of James Bond! And with their recent acquisition of Ponzi Vineyards here in the Willamette Valley (who encouraged us to pay their frères d'une autre mère a visit), they're expanding their reach beyond France. We got a behind-the-scenes look at their cellars, which house over 2 miles of aging bottles. They do a crazy thing where, for their Reserve Champagnes, they actually do three fermentations instead of two(!) - aging some of the reserve wine on the lees in magnum before adding it to the final blend.We got to taste a recently disgorged 2008 Extra Brut that had spent over 13 years aging on the lees, which was a real study in luxury.
Champagne was a whirlwind, and I'm already eager to go back. There's so much happening in the region right now, with a growing number of these small, independent growers making terroir-driven, even single-vineyard Champagnes. These young producers are pushing boundaries with organic and biodynamic farming, and many are experimenting with little to no dosage (the sugar added after the second fermentation). It was tough to get appointments at these smaller houses on January 2nd - everyone was still recovering from the holiday! But I'm so glad I got to experience the grandeur and history of the region at two of its most iconic houses. It gave me a solid foundation in Champagne's rich heritage, and I can't wait to return to explore the exciting world of grower-producer Champagne - maybe for Le Printemps du Champagne in the spring? 🤞
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Ayala (Äy, Champagne) A historic Champagne house founded in 1860, Ayala is known for its elegant, Chardonnay-driven Champagnes. They were one of the first to embrace the brut style, and their commitment to low dosage and minimal oak aging results in Champagnes that are crisp, clean, and incredibly food-friendly.
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Bollinger (Äy, Champagne) A legendary Champagne house with a rich history dating back to 1829, Bollinger is known for its powerful, full-bodied Champagnes. This is a stop for those who love luxury, a richer style, and everything 007…
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Sacre Bistro (Epernay, Champagne) This hip bistro in the heart of Epernay is a must-visit for anyone who loves Champagne and creative, seasonal cuisine. The menu features innovative takes on French classics, and the wine list is a treasure trove of small-grower Champagnes and other minimal-intervention wines.
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I'll be back next week to talk all about a region that is very near and dear to my heart: the Jura! So get ready for Vin Jaune, dinosaurs and allllll the Comté
Cheers and until next week,
Kelsey
P.S. If you're looking for a welcome distraction from current events, I'd love for you to join us at Arden on Monday, February 3rd, for a once-in-a-lifetime winemaker dinner with Beaux Frères. We'll be tasting through a seven-year vertical of their Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir from 2016 to 2022, all paired with a delicious four-course meal by Chef Erik. I'll be playing host and facilitating the conversation with winemaker Mikey Etzel, who will be sharing insights into each vintage and his winemaking process. Since 2016 was Mikey's first vintage taking the reins from his dad, this is a unique opportunity to taste through every wine he's made and really see his evolution as a winemaker. It's going to be an incredible evening and we have less than 10 seats left!
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