Ever Wanted to TASTE History?

Hi Wine Friends,

If you caught me on social media this week, you likely saw the winemaker dinner I hosted at Arden with Nate Ready of Hiyu Wine Farm. It’s been a long-time dream collaboration for me, and seeing it come to life was a true joy. Hiyu stands apart in today’s wine world, and I’m eager to share what makes them so extraordinary. If you’re fascinated by organic, biodynamic, and regenerative farming, permaculture, or simply love delving into history through wine, read on for some deep wine geekery.

History In a Glass

As a self-proclaimed history nerd, one of the aspects of wine that enchants me most is its role as a historical lens. Sure, a glass of Rioja pairs beautifully with steak, but it’s also a portal into a bygone era. When phylloxera devastated French vineyards in the late 1800s, Bordeaux winemakers turned to Rioja, introducing oak barrels and extended bottle aging, forever shaping its winemaking style. Hungarian Furmint from Sömlo transports us to the Holy Roman Empire, a time when it was revered across Europe; when passing armies removed their helmets in homage, brides drank it on their wedding night to conceive a son, and winemakers caught falsifying it were banned from the profession for life.

What makes wine endlessly fascinating is imagining its evolution over centuries. We can learn intellectually that Burgundy would have actually been a rosé made from both white and red grapes until a few centuries ago, but we can’t taste it - until now.

Enter Nate Ready and Hiyu Wine Farm, where history is resurrected in the glass. Nate studies ancient winemaking texts to recreate viticulture from 16th century Savoie, medieval Burgundy, or ancient Ribeira Sacra (just to name a few) right here in Oregon’s Columbia Gorge.

Terroir or Not

Today’s vineyards are meticulously organized by grape variety and, within that, by clone—for example, Dijon, Pommard and Wadensville under the umbrella of Pinot Noir. But in historical vineyards, diversity ruled. Until the early 20th century, humans didn’t have the technology to differentiate grape varietals (much less clones) on a scientific level. So most vineyards were field blends: multiple varietals interplanted in the same vineyard - white, red and pink grapes alike.

In a field blend, varietals are harvested and fermented together. This is very different from today’s strategy of picking blocks at optimal ripeness, vinifying them separately and then blending them after fermentation to create the perfect cuvée.

Some say terroir only pertains to one grape from one vineyard site, but Nate Ready would say that a field blend can just as easily display terroir. And I’m inclined to agree with him. A Hiyu wine might contain over 30 different grapes, but it is still an expression of one place, one soil, one climate. 

Inspired by history, Nate hunts down cuttings of obscure varietals and grafts them onto a single plot (sometimes onto a single vine!) to recreate the terroir of that time and place. The resulting wines defy modern expectations and understandings. When we hear Tempranillo, we expect a big, bold red. But from a block co-planted with Prieto Picudo, Juan Garcia, Trousseau, Babosa Negro, Macabeo and Albillo (to name a few), the resulting wine ‘Columba’ is closer to a dark rosé.

The ‘Solais’ blend inspired by Châteauneuf-du-Pape, incorporating all thirteen permitted varietals (reds and whites alike), surprises with a pale hue akin to Pinot Noir, yet brims with savory notes of leather, black pepper, and wild herbs typical of its origin.

‘Falcon Box’ echoes ancient Burgundy with a co-fermentation of Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Aligote, Chardonnay,  Pinot Meunier and Melon de Bourgogne, shimmering with a coppery glow and refreshing acidity—a time capsule to an era before extended macerations, punch downs and the use of oak barrels.

Farming with Purpose

At Hiyu, sustainable farming reaches new heights. In fact, their full name is Hiyu Wine Farm. Biodynamic and regenerative practices, integrated with permaculture, nurture a biodiverse ecosystem. Animals roam freely, vegetables thrive alongside vines, and natural treatments replace synthetic chemicals. 

This biodiversity enhances vineyard resilience. When pests or disease strike, certain vines are more resistant than others so only a small percentage - rather than the whole vineyard - suffer. This builds a stronger immunity in the vineyard overall, similar to the human immune system thriving on diverse exposure.

A visit to Hiyu is not just a wine tasting—it’s an exploration of possibility in winemaking and a deep dive into the historical evolution of wine styles. Nate’s wines reflect this journey—crafted with care, wizardry, and a commitment to rewriting wine’s narrative. I hope you will take a trip out to the Columbia Gorge to experience the magic yourself!