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Hi Wine Friends,
I just returned from a whirlwind week in Italy, and while I’m grateful to be home, I’m seriously missing the abundance of exquisite (and affordable) Nebbiolo on every table. I thought I knew a lot about Piedmont, but this trip really opened my eyes to the complexity and structure that define Barolo, Barbaresco, the larger Langhe, and beyond. So, I thought I’d take a moment to share some of the insights I gained…
The Bigger Picture
Piedmont can feel a bit confusing because there are many recognizable wine names, some referring to regions and others to grapes. For instance, Barolo and Barbaresco are regions (both made from Nebbiolo), while Barbera is a grape labeled as Barbera d’Asti or Barbera d’Alba, named after their respective subregions.
To zoom out a bit, Piedmont is a region in northwest Italy—a little less than twice the size of the Willamette Valley—sandwiched between Liguria to the south and the Alps to the north. In fact, Piedmont literally means "foot of the mountain," and I truly appreciated the majestic Alps looming over the landscape during my trip. Another distinguishing feature of Piedmont is its hilly terrain, with only 5% of its geography being flat. So, as you drive through, you’re treated to gently rolling hills covered in grapevines.
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Within Piedmont lies the Roero, located to the north of the Tanaro River, and the Langhe, a hilly area to the south. Roero is known for its sandy soils, which produce Nebbiolo with a lighter body and fruitier flavors compared to Barolo and Barbaresco. The region also produces excellent Arneis, a white grape with floral aromas and crisp acidity that’s often likened to a sunny day in a glass.
The larger Langhe is home to several famous wine regions, each with its own unique characteristics:
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Barolo:
The so-called "King” of Italian wines, Barolo is produced from Nebbiolo grapes grown in the Langhe's hilly terrain. The wines are known for their powerful tannins, complex aromas (red fruit, smoke, truffle and black licorice), and ability to age gracefully for decades. Barolos are held back 3 years before release (5 years for Riserva) but in my opinion show best after 10 years.
Barbaresco:
Also produced entirely from Nebbiolo grape, Barbaresco is the “Queen” to Barolo’s King. Barbaresco is generally more elegant, delicate and perfumed, with aromas of cherry, cranberry, rose and less of the brooding earth notes.. They still offer impressive structure and aging potential but are often ready to drink sooner than Barolo.
Dogliani:
Located south of Barolo, Dogliani is best known for its Dolcetto. Despite the name meaning "little sweet one," this grape brings deep flavors of black cherry, cassis, cacao, and anise, all wrapped up in a full body and structured tannins. If you love Syrah or Zinfandel, Dolcetto is a fantastic alternative!
Alba:
The town of Alba is the heart of the Langhe and a hub for wine production and tourism. While famous for its white truffles, Alba also produces excellent Barbera. Often overshadowed by Nebbiolo, Barbera is underrated and one of the friendliest grapes around. With medium body, medium tannins, and plenty of lip-smacking red fruit and spice, it pairs beautifully with everything from roast chicken to spaghetti marinara to pepperoni pizza.
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The iconic Barolos of Paolo Scavino
To the north of the Langhe lies Alto Piemonte, a mountainous area in the foothills of the Alps that produces lighter, more ethereal expressions of Nebbiolo. I’m a big fan of Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo because it’s often ready to drink sooner and is usually more affordable than Barolo or Barbaresco. Look for Gattinara and Ghemme for elegant expressions filled with minerality and alpine herbal spice.
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And don’t miss these other delicious, native Piedmontese varietals
Arneis:
Arneis offers a beautiful balance of richness and freshness. Its vibrant acidity is complemented by flavors of pear, peach, and almond, with floral notes that give it an alluring aroma. It’s versatile enough to pair with seafood, creamy pasta dishes, and even fried foods.
Cortese:
The main grape used in Gavi (which is what you’ll see on the label), Cortese is known for its crispness and refreshing acidity. This grape delivers bright notes of green apple, lemon, and raw hazelnut, often with a mineral quality that reflects the region's terroir. It’s great with lighter fare like salads, seafood, and soft cheeses.
Freisa:
A lesser-known red grape, Freisa is light-bodied with a lively acidity and soft tannins. Freisa means strawberry and its aromas reflect that, along with herbal notes of tarragon and rose petal. Freisa can be made in both still and sparkling styles.
Grignolino:
This light, highly aromatic red grape is characterized by its bright acidity and very low tannins. Grignolino typically has notes of raspberry and lilac and pairs well with charcuterie and lighter fare.
Pelaverga:
A unique varietal that produces light, fresh wines with vibrant berry flavors and a hint of spice.. think bing cherry, huckleberry and clove. Pelaverga is best enjoyed slightly chilled, and it’s a perfect match for grilled meats and roasted vegetables.
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My Portland travel buddies and the wonderful women of Podere Ruggeri Corsini
I hope you’re inspired to go try some wines from this incredible region - and maybe branch out beyond just Barolo and Barbaresco. There are so many amazing options to choose from and the quality across the board is excellent. Plus, we are blessed in Portland to be a large market for Northern Italian wines, so they aren’t too hard to find.
I’ll be back next week with some more harvest news. In the meantime, enjoy the last few days of sunshine!
Cheers,
Kelsey
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