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Hi Wine Friends,
Continuing these French adventures to get us through the doldrums of January... Last week we talked all things sparkling in Champagne. This week, I'm taking you to a lesser-known but equally incredible region: the Jura.
Tucked between Burgundy and Switzerland, this mountainous region is in the foothills of the French alps and is just as magical as that sounds. The Jura was the first place where they discovered limestone from a time period so unique that they named the whole era in its honor: Jurassique. So it's actually where the word Jurassic comes from! And, as you can imagine, these unique white limestone soils--filled with fossilized seashells and yes, even dinosaurs--combined with the cool climate - produce wines that are both singular and spectacular.
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We drove the two hours from Burgundy up snow-dusted hillsides, past frosty vineyards, and started our Jura adventure in the ancient cellars of Jean Bourdy. Bourdy is one of the oldest wineries in France, having made wine continuously since 1475! Their cellars are home to bottles dating back to the 1600's and it's basically like visiting a French wine museum. When they agreed to sell me a bottle of 1988 birth year Chardonnay and label it for me on the spot, I nearly died.
And of course, we also got to dive deep into Vin Jaune - the region's legendary oxidative wine and one of the most rare styles in the world.
Vin Jaune is made from the Savagnin grape and aged for at least six years and three months in used oak barrels under a layer of flor (a film of yeast that develops on the surface of the wine, similar to Sherry). During this time, the flor protects the wine from oxidation and imparts unique nutty, spicy, and slightly salty flavors. Due to evaporation, the barrels are never topped up, resulting in a significant loss of volume over those six years. Only if the flor survives the entire aging period is the wine allowed to be called Vin Jaune, which explains its scarcity and price point!
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Our next stop was Domaine Frederic Lornet, a small, family-run winery housed in a stunning 12th-century abbey with beautiful stained glass windows. Even though there was a bit of a language barrier, it gave me the great opportunity to practice my rusty French. And we ended up having an incredible tasting with some fun surprises, like a rosé of Macvin - the Jura's signature sweet, fortified wine made by adding Marc (distilled grape brandy) to unfermented grape juice. They even sent us home with fossilized shells from the Jurassic soils of their vineyards!
And finally, we visited Stephane Tissot, a dynamic producers who is at the forefront of the natural wine movement in the Jura. His wines are made with minimal intervention and are a true expression of the terroir. We tasted through his range, which included everything from sparkling Crémant du Jura to the region's signature reds Trousseau and Ploussard to Chardonnay, Savagnin and Vin Jaune. I was blown away by the quality and diversity of his wines.
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And speaking of range - that's one of my favorite things about the Jura. You can truly drink every style from sparkling to white to red to sweet to fortified and find something for every palate. This visit cemented Savagnin's status as one of my favorite white grapes on the globe--reminiscent of a saltier cross between Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. It can be delicious in both light, fresh styles and aged, nutty, oxidized ones. And, if you're a fan of light reds, then you should absolutely check out the reds Ploussard and Trousseau. Ploussard is simpler and fruitier (think strawberry, rhubarb and huckleberry) while Trousseau is still light but more oomplex, with a balance of delicate red fruit and woodsy underbrush.
And let's not forget the food! The Jura is a cheese lover's paradise, with Comté as its queen. We indulged in plenty of fondue, French onion soup, and river trout smothered in - you guessed it - more Comté.
The town of Arbois, the capital of the Jura (and home of dairy icon Louis Pasteur), is a charming little alpine village with plenty of wine bars and restaurants. (See my favorites below)
Needless to say, just like Champagne, one day was not enough and I can't wait to return! I'll be back next week with the final installment of my France trip – a deep dive into my favorite city of all time: Paris.
Cheers and until next week,
Kelsey
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Favorite Stops in the Jura
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La Finette (Arbois): This bustling, unpretentious spot is a local favorite for good reason. The menu serves hearty, traditional Jura dishes shared for the table-- fondue, French onion soup, and river trout, all made with the region's famous Comté cheese. It's the perfect place to experience the warm, convivial atmosphere of the community.
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Stephane Tissot (Arbois): A visit to Stephane Tissot's tasting room is a must for any natural wine enthusiast. Tissot is a pioneer of the natural wine movement in the Jura, and his wines are a pure expression of the region's unique terroir. The tasting room is located on the old town square in the heart of Arbois, and the staff is incredibly knowledgeable and passionate about the wines.
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Le Bistronome (Arbois): This Michelin-starred restaurant offers a refined, modern take on traditional Jura cuisine. The menu features updated twists on classic dishes (Poached trout with Comté cream and cured beats, for instance) and the wine list is extensive and well-curated. And while the a la carte menu is a tad speedy, the carte du jour is shockingly well-priced!
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