My favorite stops in Paris 🇫🇷

Paris isn't just a city; it's an old friend, a love story that began when I was just a teenager. In middle school, my family hosted a Parisian exchange student, and the following summer, her younger sister came to stay with us. The summer after that, at sixteen, I found myself on a plane to Paris, my rudimentary French surprisingly passable, ready to spend the summer with their family. 

That summer was pure magic – a whirlwind of fashion, art, language and that indescribable je ne sais quoi that only Paris possesses. It was also my first introduction to wine – ironic, considering I grew up in the heart of Oregon wine country! I vividly remember tasting Chenin Blanc and being amazed that wine could taste like "caramel apples" (hey, tasting notes have to start somewhere, right?) I recall savoring Camembert cheese with raw onions as a "dessert," the tiny, strong coffees alongside buttery croissants, and feeling, for the first time, a sense of adulthood in a city that exuded romance, adventure, sophistication, and beauty. 

Paris captured my heart then, and it's a love affair that's only grown stronger over the years. So, when I planned this trip to Beaune, I knew I had to carve out a few days in the City of Lights. And since I was officially off the clock, I decided to skip any industry visits and simply sip, savor and wander (my favorite Parisian pastime). So today I’m sharing some personal highlights – mostly culinary, some cultural – from this most recent Parisian escape…. 

Culinary Adventures

To celebrate the return to my happy place, I managed to snag a coveted reservation at Septime. I spent two months on a wait list but, at the ninth hour, the universe came through and we ended up with a table on our first night in the city! And let me tell you, it lived up to every bit of the hype. Their Michelin-starred tasting menu was a work of art, with creative ingredients and global inspiration (dashe scallops with yuzu bone marrow? Uni and squash risotto? Sous vide arbol chili chicken?). And their streamlined winelist is full of minimal intervention wines from hippest new producers that are hard to track down anywhere else.

Speaking of natural wine, 228 Litres in Pigalle is my go-to for a glass (or three) of the good stuff. This trendy little wine bar, run by passionate brothers Louis and Pierre, always has something new and exciting on their ever-changing list. I love going and and asking them what they’re excited to pour and what are the latest trends they’re seeing. I tried a sans soufs Semillon (‘Secmillon’) from Bordeaux that was like peach rings and marmalade and candied nuts but bone dry. And then Louis blew my mind by pulling out a skin-contact Pinot Blanc from Japan (!!) that was one of the most intoxicatingly aromatic and complex glasses I’ve ever enjoyed. 

After all that wine, I couldn't resist the allure of a Parisian pastry. Du Pain et des Idées in the Marais was calling my name, and their "escargot" croissants – flaky, buttery spirals filled with chocolate and pistachio paste – were worth every calorie. And right next door, Buddy Buddy, a Dutch coffee shop, offered the perfect pairing: a steaming cup of coffee infused with various creamy nut butters. It was the unexpected treat I didn't know I needed, especially in the chilly winter weather.

While wandering through the Marais, I stumbled upon Marché des Enfants Rouges, a covered market that's a foodie's dream. From fresh produce to cured meats to fragrant tagines, it was a feast for the senses. I couldn't resist the allure of the seafood counter, where I slurped down fresh oysters with a crisp glass of Chablis – pure French bliss.

And I’m always on the mission for a great steak tartare. (It’s an odd dichotomy - I’m never tempted by steak, but forget to cook it and I can’t resist). So I popped into Camille, just off the Place des Vosges. Their updated French bistro vibe was great, and the tartare hit the spot, paired with a glass of Champagne (obviously). It was the perfect shopping pick-me-up, as it’s sandwiched between all of the best boutiques in the city (and trust me, I visited too many of them).

And then there was L'Escargot. We stumbled upon this very quintessential-looking French brasserie and feared it might be a tourist trap, right in the heart of the very cute Montorgueil district where we were staying, but we were pleasantly surprised at the quality. We got frog legs, bone marrow, duck confit, beef bourguignon, onion soup, carafes of Bourgogne Aligote and of course, escargot – it was a meal that left me feeling oh-so-French.

A Day As A Tourist

One unexpected perk of visiting Paris in January? No lines! The spots that have become overrun with tourists in the last decade — and usually require long waits — were wide open. So I spent a day in a peacoat, playing flâneur, just wandering into some quintessential Parisian haunts.

I wandered across to Île de la Cité to marvel at the newly reopened Notre Dame Cathedral. Then, I crossed the river to lose myself in the stacks at Shakespeare and Company, one of my favorite places in the world (If you haven't read Hemingway's "A Moveable Feast," get on that stat! ). I was so shocked to see tables open at Café de Flore (a zoo in recent years) that I treated myself to a Niçoise salad while admiring the elegant Saint-Germain crowd. A leisurely stroll back across the river, past the Louvre (even I draw the tourist line there!), and through the peaceful Tuileries Gardens led me to Angelina to end the day with a decadent hot chocolate. These iconic spots may be touristy, but they're iconic for a reason, and experiencing them in the quiet of winter was truly special.

If you made it this far, I hope this provided a brief respite from the winter dreariness and allowed you to escape to Paris, if only for a few minutes.

Santé and à bientôt,

Kelsey